Bono is Indonesia's river bore wave, a freshwater bore that Rip Curl's search crew dubbed the Seven Ghosts. It supercharges the gentle art of cruising along a knee-high crumbler, and different sections offer very different waves: speedy, endlessly walled runs suited to shortboards, along with heavier, shallow, close-to-the-riverbank sections that throw some barrels for surfers with the skill to take them on. Because the quality and shape change from section to section, longboarders, SUP riders, kneeboarders, kayakers and surf skis can all join in. The wave breaks both left and right over sand and can run around 40km from Pulau Muda to the deepwater beginner sections either side of Teluk Meranti, with the record for a single continuous ride sitting just over an hour.
When It Works
The Bono draws swell from southwest through southeast, with northeast swell the best match, and it is usable from 0.3 m / 1 ft to 3 m / 10 ft. It is moderately consistent, but the timing is remarkably predictable: a big bono and a small bono alternate between night and day on every full and new moon, which adds up to as many as 100 potential surf days a year. The wave usually arrives within 15 minutes either side of the predicted time, and the early and late months of the year are often the best.
Wind and Tide
Look for a southwest offshore wind. The bore works on high tide, with a rising tide generally the better call.
Local Tips
This one suits intermediate surfers, and the lineup tends to stay fairly quiet. Experts pumping a shortboard will get tired over the long ride, and when the river runs low you can expect to spend time lying in the whitewash and dragging fins through the mud. Riding the zodiacs comes with its own battering as you negotiate crosswaves and the smaller following waves, and getting back in front of the Bono to catch it again can be tricky. Keep an eye out for floating logs and trees, and take care in the boats; the crocs, at least, avoid both the Bono and the boats.
Access
Base yourself in the basic accommodation at Teluk Meranti. Walking around the village when it goes underwater is all part of this unique experience, one that every surfer should try at least once.
